Reaching Masoala is an adventure. First, I took a charter flight to the gateway town is Maroantsetra, located 750km from Antananarivo, Madagascar’s capital. Flying low over the Madagascar allowed me to see the diverse landscape of this beautiful country from above. The 2-plus hour flight was an experience itself.

From Maroantetra it is a two-hour boat ride through the Bay of Antongil. As we cut through the waves, the lush green coastline of Masoala National Park slowly came into view. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of Madagascar’s largest protected areas and a true testament to the island’s incredible biodiversity. The anticipation built as I approached, knowing I was about to enter one of the least visited and most pristine ecosystems on the planet. Upon arrival, I was greeted by the sight of dense rainforest meeting the azure waters of the Indian Ocean – a unique feature that sets Masoala apart from other national parks.

My guide met me at the lodge, his eyes sparkling with enthusiasm for the adventures ahead. As I settled in, he briefed me on the park’s incredible diversity: Masoala is a biodiversity hotspot, home to an incredible array of flora and fauna. The park boasts ten species of lemurs, including the rare red-ruffed lemur and the mysterious aye-aye, from which the park derives its name – “masoala” means “eyes of the forest” in the local language. Bird enthusiasts will be thrilled with the opportunity to spot some of the ninety species of tropical birds that inhabit the park. I was fortunate to spot the striking helmet vanga on my adventure in the national park.

My first trek into the park began early the next morning. As I stepped off the boat, which I used to get to the entrance of the park, into the rainforest, the humidity enveloped me like a warm, damp blanket. Within an hour, we were drenched – not from rain, but from the pervasive moisture in the air. This, Elysee explained, is why Masoala is one of the wettest places in Madagascar, receiving rain on 300 days of the year.

The challenging conditions, however, were quickly forgotten as we encountered our first lemur – a red ruffed lemur, one of Masoala’s endemic species. These striking primates, with their rust-colored fur and expressive faces, moved through the canopy with incredible agility. As we ventured deeper into the forest, my guide heard the unique call of a helmet vanga. After standing still and looking through the forest, we saw this beautiful bird, with its massive blue bill, perched on a nearby branch. A short-legged ground roller scuttled across our path, its iridescent plumage catching the filtered sunlight. The diversity of life in Masoala is staggering.

At night, I went on night walks in the secondary forest to see the nocturnal species. About seventy percent of the lemur species are nocturnal, including the aye-aye, which I have dreamed of seeing since I was child. While the elusive aye-aye evaded me for three nights, I did see four new species during these walks, including mouse and sportif lemurs.

One of the unique aspects of Masoala is its proximity to the ocean and that it protects both terrestrial and marine environments. The park’s coastal areas and adjacent marine reserves are a haven for marine life, making it a prime destination for snorkeling and diving. The coral reefs here are home to a diverse array of fish, sea turtles, and other marine creatures.

Snorkeling in the clear waters off Masoala’s coast reveals a stunning underwater world. Vibrant coral formations and schools of colorful fish create a mesmerizing spectacle. For those looking to explore deeper, scuba diving excursions offer an even closer look at the park’s marine biodiversity. Encounters with sea turtles, rays, and even the occasional reef shark are not uncommon.

Unfortunately, I was not in Masoala during the right season to see what I would consider a true highlight. From July to early September, humpback whales visit Antongil Bay for breeding and calving. Based on my conversation with the guides and locals, I look forward to returning during this time of year to kayak amongst breaching whales!

Visiting a local community in Masoala as part of my safari offered a unique opportunity to experience the rich culture and daily life of Madagascar’s rural inhabitants. Eco-tourism plays a crucial role in supporting these communities, providing alternative income sources and incentives for conservation. Locals proudly share their traditions and knowledge, while also benefiting from responsible travel. The interaction with the residents created a more meaningful and responsible travel experience and as I explored the forest, spotting lemurs and orchids, I knew my visit was not only a privilege but also a vital investment in the future of this incredible region.

As I prepared to leave Masoala, I reflected on the incredible experience I had. This park, often overlooked due to its remote location and challenging weather, offers a glimpse into Madagascar’s primordial past. It’s a place where nature still reigns supreme, where new species are still being discovered, and where the delicate balance of ecosystems remains largely intact.

However, like much of Madagascar’s unique habitats, Masoala faces threats from deforestation and climate change. The park’s status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site offers some protection, but continued conservation efforts are crucial. Eco-tourism plays a vital role in conserving this special wilderness. By visiting Masoala, tourists contribute to the local economy and support initiatives that aim to preserve the park’s unique flora and fauna.

My visit to Masoala National Park was more than just a wildlife adventure – it was a journey into one of the last true wildernesses on Earth. As I boarded our boat back to Maroantsetra, the emerald coastline receding behind us, I felt a profound sense of gratitude for having experienced this remarkable place. Masoala is a testament to Madagascar’s incredible natural heritage and a powerful reminder of why we must strive to protect these irreplaceable ecosystems for future generations. From its dense rainforests to its pristine beaches and from its diverse wildlife to its warm local communities, Masoala offers an unforgettable adventure for those willing to venture off the beaten path.